A Song for you:Darren Alan Perfumes Dorian's Fougère 道林格雷馥奇

And when my life is over
Remember when we were together

We were alone
And I was singing this song to you

香調表:
前調:香檸檬、穗狀薰衣草、苦橙葉、乳香葉
主調:康乃馨、天竺葵、山楂、乾草原精、沙巴茉莉、橙花、零陵香豆原精
基調:復古麝香、橡苔、麝貓香、邁索爾檀香、廣藿香、勞丹脂、藏紅花、香脂協調


Angelos Créations Olfactives Fougèriste 是一支光明的馥奇——古典的框架與前中調明顯的現代改良元素,將馥奇改寫得澄澈透亮,也同時保留了馥奇的老式優雅。
同樣是氣質中性且框架明顯帶著復古風情的馥奇,Dorian’s Fougère 展現出了與 Angelos Créations Olfactives Fougèriste 截然不同的氣質面向:
Dorian’s Fougère 是一支濃烈的、霧面的、密不透光的深色馥奇,酸澀而陰鬱。

前調以香檸檬的酸味做開場,緊接著是馥奇的面向,濃烈的芳香植物與零陵香豆共構出墨綠色的植物氣息,一點乳香的粉質樹脂氣息輕輕籠罩,明亮的、尖銳的芳香植物氣息被打上一層啞光,就像是金屬表面鍍上一層霧面氧化膜。

待芳香植物的氣息稍微平靜後,氣味正式進入主調:芬芳的乾草的氣息迎上天竺葵,與仍然明顯的零陵香豆延續了前調乾燥輕盈的經典馥奇輪廓,這個氣味貫串三調,為整支作品的核心。

但藏在傳統馥奇面向底下的,是爆炸性的花香與麝香——強烈的花香被馥奇的外表層層掩蓋,康乃馨與山楂演奏著花香的高音部,茉莉作為花香的基礎穩穩發力,同樣音色高亢。復古麝香被花香裹狹而出,隱約夾帶著麝貓香的酸澀氣息。
Dorian’s Fougère 有著馥奇的經典架構,同時還帶著花香西普的色彩,濃密的花香與馥奇的高亢芬芳植物氣息相互交織,綻放在復古麝香、檀香與橡木苔廣藿香組成的老式香水基調上,密不透光,聲勢浩大。
零陵香豆的氣息被老式麝香的絨毛感與綿長的檀香所延續,酸澀、陰鬱的橡木苔被一絲動物氣息進一步加深,銜接在花香與植物的氣息之後,形成悠久而綿長的木質動物麝香基底。

墨綠的清新植物的氣息作為表面偽裝,底下藏著酸澀芬芳的花香,以及沉鬱腐敗的朽木。
華麗中帶著污痕。昏暗的氛圍縈繞不去,一如作品的靈感來源:
道林格雷,為了年輕貌美出賣靈魂的美少年。

個人觀點的評分總結:

持香性:9(活躍期約前4小時)
實穿性:8(老式馥奇)
表現性:8~9(陰鬱的花香馥奇)
價格比:5(50ml / 195美元)

Dorian’s Fougère is a dark, matte, and impenetrable interpretation of the classic fougère. It’s sharp, bitter, and somber from the start.
It opens with the tartness of bergamot, quickly followed by a dense blend of aromatic herbs and tonka bean. This green, almost inky accord is softened slightly by a powdery touch of frankincense, giving it a foggy, muted sheen—like a polished metal surface dulled by a matte oxide layer.
As the sharpness of the herbs settles, the heart of the fragrance reveals itself: dry hay paired with geranium and supported by persistent tonka bean. This dry, airy fougère signature runs through the entire development, acting as the backbone of the composition.
But beneath the structure lies something unexpected: a vivid explosion of florals and musk. Clove-like carnation and tart hawthorn take the high notes, jasmine provides the floral foundation, and together they pierce through the fougère with striking clarity. These florals are wrapped in vintage-style musk, tinged with a hint of animalic civet that adds a sour, feral edge.
At its core, Dorian’s Fougère follows a traditional fougère architecture—but infused with the richness of a floral chypre. It’s bold and densely layered, with bright herbal top notes giving way to a blooming floral heart, resting on a vintage-style base of musk, sandalwood, patchouli, and oakmoss.
The tonka bean’s sweetness lingers in the base, softened by fuzzy musk and creamy sandalwood, while the bitter oakmoss takes on a darker, animalic tone that connects the florals and green facets to the woody, decaying finish.
A mask of green freshness on the surface hides a complex structure beneath: sharp florals and the melancholy scent of mossy, rotting wood.

A Song for you:Darren Alan Perfumes Dorian's Fougère 道林格雷馥奇

https://havenicetea.com/dorian/

作者

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發表於

2025-08-06

更新於

2025-08-06

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