狂熱:Zakir Gafur Soil of Eden 伊甸沃土
氣勢逼人的麝香玫瑰沉香,宛如鬥牛士手中的 muleta,猩紅的色彩引領狂熱。
香調表:
印度玫瑰、奧圖玫瑰、塔伊夫玫瑰、鳶尾、藏紅花、印度沉香、檀香、麝貓香、喜馬拉雅麝香、蘑菇原精
Soil of Eden 氣勢驚人且氣味強烈,結構卻異常簡單,氣味也稍嫌線性,就是麝香玫瑰沉香——顯然,這是一個想靠原料品質以及定價來直球對決的香水品牌。不過我敢說,這支作品的表現在同價位的同類型香水中絕對名列前茅。
Soil of Eden 一上皮就是爆炸性的大馬士革玫瑰,其他氣味元素一直被牢牢壓在玫瑰底下——尖銳如天竺葵的青綠感、甜潤如荔枝的玫瑰花香、金屬感的丁香氣息,濃艷至極的猩紅玫瑰肆意生長,殷紅的花瓣下滿是猙獰的荊棘。
爆發性的香茅醇與香葉醇強度驚人,這股玫瑰花香不太建議長時間近距離聞,鼻子很快就會開始灼痛。稍微隔段距離(至少間隔十公分),荔枝般的甘甜玫瑰香氣將陣陣襲來,明豔動人。
氣味基底也同樣強烈——沉香、麝香、麝貓香,組成了帶酸味的清苦麝香沉香底蘊,並略帶泥土氣息。儘管沉香的層次沒有什麼驚喜,體感上較為單一,勝在沉香與麝香本身的品質相當不錯。
大馬士革屬的玫瑰經常搭配廣藿香,比起甜美且綠意較弱的千葉玫瑰,帶著辛辣感與綠意的大馬士革屬玫瑰更容易與廣藿香銜接,廣藿香的藥感與深色土壤感既可以創造出玫瑰濃艷且深邃的氣味印象,同時也使得玫瑰更容易與木質調基底銜接。
Soil of Eden 避開已經過於氾濫的玫瑰廣藿香沉香結構,調香師使用「蘑菇」來取代廣藿香的作用,蘑菇潮濕、泛酸的潮濕黑土氣息同樣延長了紅玫瑰的尾韻,同時也銜接了玫瑰到沉香麝香基底的氣味過渡,這個嘗試非常有趣。
於是,最終我們得到了一個「Soil of Eden」,一朵盛放在麝香與沉香上的殷紅玫瑰,飄散著潮濕的土壤氣息。儘管香調經典,但擴散驚人、持香良好,非常適合想嘗試該香調的新手入手。
個人觀點的評分總結:
持香性:10(活躍期約4小時)
實穿性:8(擴散炸裂紅玫瑰沉香)
表現性:8(略線性但蘑菇的嘗試很有趣)
價格比:4(15ml / 135 美元)
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Soil of Eden is bold, loud, and unapologetically direct. Its structure is simple—musk, rose, and oud—but the quality of its materials and execution places it among the strongest in its price category.
It opens with an explosive burst of Damask rose, so dominant that other facets are pushed far into the background: the sharp green edge of geranium, a lychee-like sweetness, and a metallic clove nuance. The rose here is lush and crimson, with thorny undertones lurking beneath the petals.
The concentration of citronellol and geraniol is striking—at close range, the rose can become harsh, even uncomfortably sharp on the nose. From a bit of distance, however, its lychee-like sweetness is far easier to appreciate, and the rose shows itself in a more appealing light.
The base is equally assertive: oud, musk, and civet form a tart, earthy, and slightly bitter foundation. While the oud itself is relatively straightforward, its quality is good, pairing smoothly with the musk.
Damask rose often appears with patchouli in perfumery—its spicy, green facets naturally bridge to patchouli’s herbal, dark-earth character, which in turn connects well with woody bases. Here, however, the perfumer replaces patchouli with mushroom. The mushroom note brings a damp, acidic, black-soil effect, extending the rose’s deep, wet impression and easing the transition toward the musky oud base. It’s a clever and refreshing twist on a familiar rose oud theme.
In the end, Soil of Eden is exactly what its name suggests: a crimson rose blooming over musk and oud, with the scent of damp earth rising beneath it. Classic in concept, but striking in projection and longevity.
狂熱:Zakir Gafur Soil of Eden 伊甸沃土